By Suzanne Patterson, SCC, NATAS, Founder of Natural Born Cosmetics
Setting and sealing sprays are temporary “glue-like” cosmetic layering and finishing products with distinct purposes. They are often mistaken as the same, but they are clearly different in formulations and functions. Dancers and performers should understand their specific features and actions, and the kind of surface texture they deliver in the finish. Choosing the right one for the best results makes all the difference in long wear and stay power for your particular makeup look.
Setting sprays “set” the makeup. They deliver a blending overlay that melds the finished makeup to skin for a smooth, softer looking organic finish. They hold the look together, and often contain hydrating ingredients that add a moist-looking result to the made up complexion. Setting sprays are great for dry and mature skin types, and they can also be sprayed throughout the makeup layering process to set each layer. They provide a “dewey” to semi-glossy surface texture result when used as a final finishing spray.
Sealing sprays “fix” the makeup and firmly seal it in place. They provide durability and stable continuity with longer wear, and help protect makeup from surface oil break through and perspiration. These products also allow you to layer makeup products over one another without smearing, diluting, or absorbing the color beneath it while keeping colors true to wear. Sealer sprays also prevent makeup from smearing, rubbing, or transferring onto costuming or objects. As a final finishing spray they provide a semi-matte to very flat surface texture result.
Three Basic Setting and Sealing Formulas:
Makeup setting and sealing sprays come in three basic formulas for specific performance and durability in wear needs. They also result in different surface texture qualities that must be considered in the finish and removal:
Water-based: results in a dewey or semi-gloss finish. Makeup is moveable, and will need periodic setting spray touch ups. Makeup is not waterproof, touch-resistant or entirely crease-proof. Easily dissolved with makeup wipes.
Water/acrylic-based: results in a semi-satin or semi-matte finish. Makeup is semi-moveable, and requires less touch ups. Makeup is semi-waterproof, semi-touch and rub-proof, and crease resistant. Easily dissolved with makeup wipes, cleansing oils or other cleansers and water.
Alcohol/water/acrylic based: results in a matte finish, may have slight texture. Makeup is fixed and not moveable or transferrable. Makeup is touch-proof, rub-proof, crease-proof, and waterproof unless overly soaked with excessive moisture. Dissolves with soap-based cleansers and water.
Water-Based Setting Sprays: these sprays provide a lighter semi-protective overlay on makeup that is semi-touch resistant and somewhat moisture resistant. However, they are short-lived in wear and will need periodic re-application. They are generally touch-proof, but not entirely smudge or rub-proof. They are permeable, and may streak or migrate under surface moisture or heat exposure, so not recommended for wear under climate conditions.
Certain setting spray formulations may allow you to build layers of makeup over it, using a soft patting motion over the sprayed layer without disturbing it, especially if applying powders. They vary in texture when used as a finishing spray, from a low gloss to satiny finish - such as in a dewy moist look.
Water-based setting sprays are shorter term use and do not provide all day durability in performance. As the makeup wears it starts to absorb through it within a couple of hours. They will need maintenance blotting and most likely multiple re-applications to sustain longer periods of makeup wear continuity. They also don’t provide good barrier protection against makeup transferring onto costuming, especially if it’s not maintained properly.
Water-based sprays are a good choice for ultra-sensitive skins that can't tolerate acrylic setting sprays and the stronger acrylic/alcohol-based sealers, or if you are looking for light setting and coverage spray with a dewey finish. However, they are not recommended for oily skins and those that perspire frequently, or makeup that is exposed to constant moisture conditions.
Water-Acrylic Based Setting Sprays: these setting sprays, such as Graftobian Magic Set™ are much stronger in overall performance than water-based sprays. They contain a cosmetic film-forming copolymer ingredient that provides longer durability with higher moisture resistance in wear. They deliver a surface texture "bend" with the makeup for a more natural looking result that is smudge-proof and touch-proof.
They are buildable in very light layers, and wear far longer than water-based sprays. They may also absorb through the makeup, especially under constant heat or direct moisture contact conditions, but not nearly as fast as water-based sprays. Overall, they deliver more durable surface makeup wear and moisture retardance, however they will also need maintenance blotting and a re-application or two during longer wear to ensure all-day continuity.
Water-acrylic sprays are permeable to constant or excessive moisture, thus they may degrade in wear and transfer makeup onto costuming if not maintained to enforce coverage and protection. Most sensitive skins can tolerate acrylic setting sprays well, but they are not entirely suitable for very oily skins or those that also perspire frequently. However, they can be used as a direct to skin barrier prep for oily or high perspiration skins to help retard breakthrough before applying makeup.
Alcohol-Water-Acrylic Based Setting/Sealers: the hybrid setting/sealing sprays also contain the copolymer ingredient that's been blended with a cosmetic grade alcohol to form a layer-locking fixing product. They meld the makeup layers into a budge-proof, waterproof and rub-proof result that provides all day continuity in wear. This formula, such as Graftobian Makeup Setting Spray is the most popular among makeup artists and dance performers because of its longevity in performance with a matte surface texture finish.
Setting/sealing sprays won’t get absorbed by makeup and rarely, if hardly ever, need a re-application to maintain continuity throughout all day or event wear. They are also great to use as a hair fixing spray, or to hold glitter type makeup applications in place. You can even use it to keep costuming accents in place!
These sprays are buildable throughout a makeup application when used in very light layers, but they can also produce an obvious texture or mask-like result if overdone. They are great to use under heat, humidity, or other prolonged moisture conditions such as perspiration, and only need blotting to maintain the makeup throughout wear.
Hybrid setting/sealing sprays are not recommended for sensitive or very dry skins who cannot tolerate acrylic or alcohol ingredients, but they are the perfect choice for oily skins and those that perspire frequently. They can also be used as a direct to skin barrier prep before and during a makeup application.
Tips In Using Setting and Fixing/Sealing Sprays:
Always blot any completed makeup application before using any of the sprays as a final finishing overlay.
When spraying between makeup layers, always mist in very thin layers to control the build and avoid “coating” the makeup, especially in using sealers.
Water/acrylic formulas are great to use as a pre-makeup skin barrier spray, by placing a thin film on bare skin to help protect it, or to help retard excess oil and perspiration breakthrough during a makeup application.
Spray at least 6 -8 inches from the face to avoid pooling or over spraying the makeup. Close eyes and mouth and spray in a quick “X” and “I” motion to avoid any irritation.
A very light powdering is all you may need for touching up certain setting and sealing spray formulations.
When using a finishing spray, include eyeliner, mascara and lipstick, not just foundation!
Avoid fragrance in sprays they are not needed which can be very irritating to some people, and possibility causing an allergic reaction.
In summary: the general difference between setting and sealing sprays is simply this: setting sprays blend and smooth out makeup, while sealing sprays fix and lock makeup in place.
Setting Sprays
Blend makeup layers together for a seamless looking complexion
Eliminates dry or caky power patches
Gives more of an “inborn” skin look to makeup with a fresh-looking finish
Helps retard makeup settling into fine lines
May extend makeup wear if maintained properly
Can be used on hair, costuming, and objects
Setting/Sealing Sprays
Fuses makeup and fixes it in place
Provides makeup continuity in long lasting wear
Prevents smudging, creasing, fading, and makeup absorption
Controls shine from skin oils and perspiration
Protects makeup from heat and moisture conditions and prolonged exposures
Can be used on hair, costuming, and objects
Can you use a setting spray and sealing spray together?
Yes! Layering both can deliver flawless long-wearing and lasting makeup performance. Apply your foundation, concealer, powder, eyeshadow, blush and/or bronzer applications first, then mist the setting spray, such as Graftobian Magic Set™ over it and allow to dry. Then, finish with your eyeliner, mascara and lipstick applications. Apply the sealing spray, such as Graftobian Makeup Setting/Sealing Spray evenly over the face as a final finish to secure your makeup in place. This method locks it down in a shield that delivers crease-proof, budge-proof, and waterproof wear throughout the day, event, or your performance!
Want to learn more professional methods in applying your stage performance makeup like a pro? Join the online or in-person Safer, Stronger Dancers & Instructors™ Summer Intensive and learn more stage and TV makeup techniques presented by Multiple Emmy® Award-Winning Makeup Artist Suzanne Patterson! Click here to register!
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